Pizza paradise as Naples fÃªtes UNESCO triumph
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Pizza paradise as Naples fÃªtes UNESCO triumphPublished: December 08, 2017 4:45 am On: World Agence France Presse
Naples, December 7
Proud pizza-makers and eaters in Italian city of Naples were so sure their historical speciality would win UNESCO heritage status that they were pounding the dough and chewing it up in celebration even before the distinction was announced today.
âAfter 250 years waiting, the pizza is UNES CO heritage! Congratulations Naples!â cried âpizzaiuoloâ, or Neapolitan pizza maker, Enzo Coccia, as crowds in the street outside the Sorbillo pizzeria erupted into cheers.
It didnât matter that cultural bodyâs World Heritage Committee was still hours away from declaring it âintangible heritageâ: For these specialists, there was no chance the world-famous dish could lose.
Ahead of todayâs announcement, discs of floury dough flew through the air as jubilant pizzaiuoli fÃªted their art of pizza making â" from the wooden ovens used, to the spectacular handling of the mix to âoxygenateâ it.
Passing families and youngsters whizzing by on scooters stopped to grab fresh slices dripping melted mozzarella as a man with a guitar burst into a song dedicated to the Italian delicacy.
PIZZA FOR BREAKFAST
With the news of the victory early today morning, other chefs began handing out free pizza to locals and tourists in the s outhern city who paid homage to pizzaâs key social and cultural role.
âHow perfect to celebrate with pizza for breakfast. The word pizza must be the most famous in the world, in every language, and now everyone knows we invented it!â said Marco Toeldo, 47, who was on his third slice.
Rita Rollen, a pensioner who stopped for a bite, said she was âreally happy. Instead of the Camorra (the cityâs powerful mafia), we are being recognised for something positive for once!â
Salvatore Stile earnestly said he hoped foreigners would now realise âa pizza somewhere like London is not the same, as ingredients are not as good quality. Pizza making is a serious thingâ.
Down the centuries, the Neapolitan art of pizza making has been based âon a few key elements: Water, flour, salt and yeast â" and the excellent produce from the Campania countrysideâ, pizza maker Coccia said as he pounded the dough.
âBut it is also the hands, heart and soul of pizzaiuolo which allow us to make magic,â he added, describing the stretching and turning of the dough as âa love and passion that we transmit to othersâ.
The pizzaâs humble ancestor, a plain affair usually tarted up with a bit of lard, was born less as an act of love than as a cheap, easy and fast way to feed the cityâs poor in the 18th century.
âIn around 1750, the first pizza appeared in taverns, after which people began to specialiseâ as pizza chefs, said historian Antonio Mattozzi. âBy the end of 18th century, first pizzerias were born.â
But despite being an immediate hit with locals, pizza failed to take off outside the city at first, he said.
The story goes that it was 19th-century Queen Margheritaâs love of the classic tomato, mozzarella and basil version that fired up the imagination and taste buds of diners far and wide.
Hoping to win the heart s of commoners, the queen asked in 1889 to try their favourite dish. And while she was unconvinced by anchovy and Parmesan-topped versions, the basil delight won her over.
Legend has it the winning combination was put together by pizza maker Raffaele Esposito, who baked it in the royal pizza oven in the grounds of the stunning hill-top Capodimonte Palace.
The âMargheritaâ offered to the queen was recreated on Wednesday in the 300-year old oven by pizzaiuoli who hold no truck with modern toppings like pineapple and are on a mission to defend the real thing.
âWe are honoured to pass on secrets and tips,â Gino Sorbillo told AFP.
He said there were âyoungsters from every culture who get in touch with us asking to learn, even sending us photos of their pizza attempts online saying âwhat did I do wrong?ââ
Culture Minister Dario Franceschini, digging into a hot slice fresh from the royal oven, said that while âpizza has become a universal patrimony, many donât even know it is Italianâ. âThis UNESCO decision will establish the truth once and for all: That pizza is a global food â" but it was born in Naples, and in this very oven.â
A version of this article appears in print on December 08, 2017 of The Himalayan Times.
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